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SAN MARTINO AL CIMINO

 

San Martino al Cimino è un piccolo borgo- nei pressi di Viterbo a circa 560 metri sul mare- circondato da boschi e castagneti. Pur essendo una località nota per l'aria buona ed il relax, San Martino ha una storia antica.


il bosco- foto di Iride G. 2006-dir.ris

 

Intorno all'anno 838 il luogo fu assegnato all'Abbazia di Farfa ( all'epoca molto potente)  e poi nel 1150 fu girato ai monaci cistercensi di Pontigny (Savoia) . Quest'ultimi si impegnarono all'inizio del XIII secolo nella costruzione della splendida chiesa abbaziale di San Martino.

Come rileva lo storico dell'arte Andrè Chastel, l'architettura gotica arrivò in Italia (XIII secolo) anche per il tramite di una regione come il Lazio che, oltre che geograficamente, era distante per tanti motivi dalla cultura francese e borgognona.

Infatti, con modesti scarti temporali, nel Lazio meridionale veniva consacrata l' abbazia di Fossanova che ricalcava gli schemi di Fontenay e nell'attuale viterbese veniva invece concepita - proprio a San Martino al Cimino- un'altra chiesa gotica dove, annota sempre il Chastel, si "trovano piloni alternati, ma mancano sempre gli archi di sostegno ". A Roma, centro della cristianità, solo nel 1280 arrivava un'unica chiesa ( S.Maria sopra Minerva) ispirata ai criteri gotici che trionfavano  invece in Francia, Germania e molte altre parti d'Europa.

 

la chiesa circestense di S.Martino al Cimino- foto di Iride G. 2006-dir.ris

 

La chiesa abbaziale di San Martino influenzò molto l'architettura viterbese ma ovviamente subì modifiche ed arricchimenti quando nel dominio dell'abitato i cistercensi furono sostituiti nel 1544 dalla famiglia Pamphili. Anche se in realtà gli esponenti di questa famiglia con l'ausilio di Marcantonio De Rossi si dedicarono maggiormente all'impianto del borgo circostante e poco dopo alla costruzione del loro palazzo. In tutti i casi la chiesa merita sicuramente una visita ed oltre l'architettura sono motivo d'interesse anche un antico affresco e la tela (carità di San Martino) di Mattia Preti, il c.d. "cavalier calabrese " (1613-1699) sovente al servizio della famiglia Pamphili ( lavorò fra l'altro anche a Valmontone, dove Camillo Pamphili aveva ipotizzato la costruzione della città ideale di Pamphilia). Avendone la possibiltà, non va tralasciato anche il piano nobile del citato palazzo nobiliare (soffitti lignei, decori, un camino monumentale).

Personaggio che spesso frequentava San Martino al Cimino (dove ora è sepolta) fu donna Olimpia Maidalchini Pamphili, cognata di papa Innocenzo X.  A Roma sono ancora celebri e magari leggendarie molte delle circostanze della sua vita. Passeggiando a Piazza Navona nei pressi di palazzo Pamphili, può capitare di ascoltare dalle guide turistiche anche stimolanti  narrazioni sul fantasma di Donna Olimpia.


A parte queste note storiche ed artistiche, San Martino è ben fruibile per chi ama la natura ed un pizzico dei tempi andati (gli abitanti hanno sufficientemente conservato gli antichi aspetti urbani ) . Anche se il borgo non ha il rango di comune è stato comunque aggregato alla Comunità montana dei Monti Cimini che include diversi bei posti.  Poi sono abbastanza vicini il Lago di Vico ed il relativo parco naturale.

In Tuscia non ci sono ovviamente problemi per chi ama la gastronomia :l'area dei Cimini è ancora molto legata alle tradizioni dei contadini ed i ristoranti non mancano).

Benchè la distanza con Viterbo sia di circa 5-6 km, volendo si trova da dormire direttamente a San Martino al Cimino od in altra amena località del viterbese.

 

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